No visit to Buenos Aires is complete without a stop at "El Cuartito" (literally: "Little Room") and a taste of their famous fugazza, a relatively common tomato-less pizza with sauteed onions, mozzarella, grated Parmesan, oil, and salt. The super-sweet onions, so soft they seem to dissolve, get a bit of a crisp from the super-hot gas oven; the cheeses are so ample as to ooze over the sides.